Dear Matt, What is your opininon on Prince Charles’s suit and tie ? Well, this is much more like it! My own view is that the Moore era was a nadir for the Bond films but how much different would his interpretation of the character have been if he’d got the job in the sixties? By the way, here is a clip from his appearance on What's My Line? in the ‘Property of a Lady’ Thanks again, Matt. Matt Spaiser is a graphic designer located in New York. As Mr. Spaiser observes, the Tom Ford O’Connor is still too tight on Craig. It’s the same bias as assuming that “first” (Connery or perhaps the Bond one is first introduced to) means “best.”. Charles is basically 99.99% flawless; though I concede it’s a matter of taste if the creases resulting from a full-cut are aesthetically optimal. Some of those things you mention are not present in his ’80s Bond films, and other things like the vivid-coloured ties, shiny brass buttons and brown suits are also things that Brosnan wore in his Bond films. I do like Daniel Craig’s in QOS, easily his best dressed film, I think Connery always looked timeless really in Dr. No, he was also only 32 and in great shape of his Bond years which also helped. Thanks Matt. However, do you not feel that the jacket seems to have again been cut too closely. They have complex and multicolour patterns, but always in muted and very accurately matched tones. George Clooney’s suits as Bruce Wayne in Batman and Robin have huge shoulders and a full cut, makes Brosnan’s look tame. Change the tie and you can wear those suits today. The solid charcoal suit is the second most versatile suit, which is great for business Learn how your comment data is processed. – just an enthusiastic amateur!) Goldfinger: Grey Three Piece Suit. Though Jany Temime, the costumer designer from the previous two Bond films, did not return for Bond 25, many of the styles that she established for Bond are still present. Yes, they go slightly past the end of his shoulders, which is necessary because his arms are large. and Union Jack cufflinks (quite appropriate). Well considered and well said (as always) and yes, I agree that “neutral” is a good definition to encompass this discussion! I think I am coming around to the view that “timeless” means “neutral”. Brosnan’s not, he is well dressed, but in an anonymous way. Evidence that money can’t buy taste. Why ruin it with a tie clip is a mystery to me…. What is your opinon on the crease he has on his sleeves to match the trousers ? I always have to laugh at takes like this. Thanks for the another interesting article. See more ideas about james bond, daniel craig, suits. From the recent pictures, from Sunday’s shooting, it looks a lot like a double Windsor knot, what is your educated guess on this matter? Craig is just a well dressed man. The most notable fashionable is detail steeply slanted hacking pockets, which became fashionable in the 1960s but are now considered a timeless English detail. For exemple the chalk stripe double breasted,the cream dinner jacket,the royal blue mohair two buttons suit, the checked sport jacket. BTW I was wondering why you chose Dr. No over Thunderball for classic Connery. Besides the tie in AVTAK is some shade of red, it’s definitely not a bright orange. This is the second time Craig wears sharkskin suit during his Bond era, the first one was Skyfall opening gray suit. Anyway… they definitely don’t look uninteresting to me ! Though Charles’ suit is classically proportioned, next to Craig’s suit he could look positively baggy to the untrained eye (not that I’m ‘trained’ at all! First you said it was orange, now you’re saying it’s too bright of a red. … Also, speaking of “fashion”, since the cultural revolution of the 1960’s, many trends coexisted together in society and today it’s more obvious than ever. Women wore very tight, often shrunken-looking clothes, while men wore fuller cuts. The windowpane design can be spotted clearly when Bond shoots with a rifle from the rooftop (a scene shown in the trailers). Burt Kwouk, George Pastell, Marne Maitland, Julian Glover and so many others from Bond show up in the series as well. Yes. But i must admit that many of the suits that Roger More dressed in “The man with the golden gun” are rather classic and timeless. Anyone looking objectively at Hayward’s clothing can see that it’s anything but showy or “flashy”. Moore in the 1980s wears a very similar colour palate to Brosnan: grey and blue suits in solids and stripes for the city and tan suits for warm weather. This possibly signifies that Daniel Craig made many of the tailored wardrobe choices for his previous two Bond films since he is still dressing the same without Temime. Rather interesting to see Daniel Craig’s Glen Urquhart-patterned suit, ‘fashionably’ tight, contrasted with Prince Charles’ full-cut A&S bespoke pinstripe. I also seem to remember one of the early artist’s impressions created from Fleming’s literary descriptions bore a resemblance to Moore. Solid Charcoal. Fashion had simply changed and moderated away from one extreme on its way to another. Prehaps by the time Bond 26 is filmed pleats will have again become fashionable and Bond will again be wearing them. SPECTRE improved the fit of Craig’s suits over Skyfall and it seems as if Bond 25 is moving yet another step in the right direction. Bond wears the navy tie, white cotton shirt matching his handkerchief, … Despite black shoes having become unfashionable in the last few years, it is a relief to see that Bond is still wearing them in a London business setting, where brown shoes will not do, especially not for a traditional military man like Bond. Casino Royale continues with a similar aesthetic, but with a higher button stance, higher gorge and wide-legged trousers that will more obviously date it to the era. Larlarb is a frequent collaborator of Bond 25’s original director Danny Boyle and was hired for Bond 25 when he still was to helm the film, and she stayed on with the production after Boyle’s departure. I’m not crazy about the sleeve crease, and I think it’s just a poor press job. Bond wears both button-two and button-three suits, styles that shared the shop racks and men’s wardrobes for a century until a few years ago when the button-three style fell out of favour. I’d like to know what you think of Prince Charles’ suit. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Matt Spaiser and Bond Suits with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. 98. We have tried assembling his best outfits in this contemporary collection of James Bond Suit that are all wonderful and signature in their own classy ways. The fit of the jacket from these photos is difficult to judge because Craig is always posing with his hands behind his back. The lapels are moderately narrow, just like in Spectre. The ’00s was a transitional fashion period for menswear. I used to own a 1920s full dress coat which had them and have seen a few other vintage jackets with them as well. James Bond (Daniel Craig) wears a navy Tom Ford O’Connor Windowpane suit in the pre-title scene in SPECTRE. I find it especially interesting how differently men and women dressed at the time of Die Another Day. James Bond. In 1969 the narrow proportions of the decade were no longer cutting edge, and the newly fashionable airplane-wing lapels and bell-bottom trousers were for the young counterculture—George Lazenby’s generation—and not yet a part of mainstream fashion. About Moore I mean: boldly striped shirts, high and stiff – and sometimes contrasting – collars, vivid colured or striped Regimental ties, high-contrast odd jackets, shiny brass buttons, patterned jackets, a wider and more varied palette of colours, from white to olive to several shades of brown. Dinner jackets from this era have no vents, also following the convention from the 1930s and 1940s that many people still strictly adhere to. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. The vintage Brosnan suit comes with three-button closure, peak lapel, and flap pockets. I don’t care for that look either, but it is one that Prince Charles seems to have always preferred. I never cease to be amazed at how the production of OHMSS seems to have taken place at the in the perfect Goldilocks Zone of men’s tailoring, at least for my tastes. I think the Atticus is too bold in a suit for Bond, but maybe it will feature as a dinner jacket. Octopussy takes place during the next fashion transition period, when the 1970s’ wide lapels and flared trousers were completely out of fashion, and the full-cut, linebacker-shouldered, low-gorge (where the collar meets the lapels) power suit with pleated trousers that was on the rise had not fully taken hold. They’re referred to as a “military creases” on Keikari, but I can’t find any modern uniforms that crease their jacket sleeves and it’s doubtful any of the Prince’s tailors did this by default. Despite some era-specific details, such as trouser pleats, a ticket pocket on the jacket, and waistcoat lapels, it is a timeless look and Bond was very lucky that Goldfinger was gracious enough to let his captive change clothing. The biggest clothing highlight of Dalton was the dinner suit with a Q Branch-approved velcro throat latch! The trousers I wish were higher, so no shirt was exposed beneath the buttoning point. Craig wears a folded white pocket square that matches the shirt. Now this is what I’ve been looking forward to seeing. Great topic. One could argue that the cut reflects the ideal physique of the era, rather than how the suit itself would flatter them. $ 129. If one want see a “timeless” cut…well, most of Fred Astaire wardrobe in 30s,40s and 50s could be in the closet of a bespoke customer of today. Thanks Matt – after reading this article and hearing you and Peter at Operation: Phoenix, I realize it was sorely needed. Now that you mention it, I notice that all these suits except for DAD are from transitional periods in men’s tailoring. At first, a quite normal outfit… But, looking deeper… A legend, a timeless piece. The suit jackets now feature the ‘three-roll-two’ style that is essentially a button-two suit with third top button in the lapel, a style that was popular in mid-20th century America as well as with Neapolitan tailors. Only in the 1970s, when very wide lapels and flared trousers were in fashion, would the Dr. No cut have looked outdated, at least to those who preferred the contemporary fashions. Big Chief Studios James Bond: Live & Let Die: James Bond 1: 6 Scale Action Figure. That being said, I agree with Daniele about striped shirts with contrasting white collars being quite unfitting for Bond’s character, even Moore’s Bond. As these suits are made for him, the model is not the problem, only the fit. Is such a cut acceptable? Am I right in thinking that the shoulders extend past the natural end of Craig’s? These clothes are straight out of The Persuaders! Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Matt Spaiser and Bond Suits with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. Would you consider an article looking at how Bond mixes and matches clothing? The trousers look slightly too long (which could be the result of sagging) and the jacket’s hips sometimes look too tight. Like you, I’m not a fan of the tab collar or the tie clip, but if that’s it, I think we have a winner here. $39.98 $ 39. I always laugh when I hear the 70’s dismissed as “the decade style forgot”. 89. James Bond had worn this blue sharkskin suit at Spectre headquarters. Gmasking James Bond 007 Spectre Skull Skeleton Cosplay Mask Replica. white shirts, silk decorative neckwear, certain patterns and color combinations, dark leather shoes, etc). Now, all is a question of proportions. It looks like that this outfit may be featured in a scene at M’s office, and after Skyfall and GoldenEye this is only the third time that Bond wears a checked suit to the office. Most of Moore’s flashier outfits appear in his 70’s movies, and in those movies he is not even pretending to be undercover as a businessman. It’s a shame Dalton is the only Bond actor not to make it, but they should have actually tailored him in both movies, especially LTK. Does Bond Ever Remove His Suit Jacket for a Fight? I have never heard of “Hayward’s former partner Dimi Major”. Though Jany Temime, the costumer designer from the previous two Bond films, did not return for Bond 25, many of the styles that she established for Bond are still present. $399.95 $ 399 ... Ages: 15 years and up. I always interpreted that as Connery’s and Brosnan’s Bonds being the ones who took their cover story of being a sucessful account man at Universal Exports most seriously. That’s also because their clothing match very well with the movie character and its purposes, never looking out of place. Fortunately the the average bondfan won’t notice. The jacket has a medium button stance. That said, it was easier to find clothes that fit me in the 2000s…, Sure, I like long lasts myself. The Brioni suits from TWINE are definitely nice looking, well-made, and timeless. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. This is similar to the glen check suit that Craig wears at the ‘New Digs’ in Skyfall but now it is in the classic high-contrast combination and in a slightly larger scale. Thanks for the another interesting article. Elegance is missing from both of these lightweight suits as well as, from many of the suits currently sold on the market today. Bond, even Ian Fleming’s Bond, while a man of patriotism (about his only “traditional” value), is also a man of the moment, which is why his appeal has endured for 60 years. Major has been mentioned frequently on this blog, and one of his suits is even featured in this article! I think it worth considering how different this discussion would be had Roger Moore been cast in 1962. It seems His Royal Highness is moving away from double breasted suits to single 3-button suits but still with jetted pockets where he often puts his left hand. Everyone has been moving towards lighter cloths. After years of research, he founded Bond Suits in 2010, creating the ultimate resource for James Bond style and the first catalogue of all of 007’s outfits. Matt Spaiser is a graphic designer located in New York. One can yet see it stretching at his waist, albeit to a lesser degree compared to Skyfall or Spectre. Thanks, Matt, Even I have to agree on the jacket’s cut improvement. YFFUSHI Men's Slim Fit 3 Piece Suit One Button Business Wedding Prom Suits Blazer Tux Vest & Trousers. As you so aptly mention, the fit of the suit is visibly improved, such as in terms of its length and the width of the shoulders. I also liked Sir Roger Moore’s suits as shown on your website from his time doing ‘The Saint’ TV series. Author Ian Fleming selected an anonymous, pared-down version of his own personal wardrobe for his central character. I don’t see how one era (say of the mid 1980s) is “timeless” but would date Bond if worn in the mid 1970s, but another era is “fashionable” when the same is true of those 1977 suits if worn in 1983. I’m astound about the proportions,and the cut of Astaire’s suits. It is a symbol for the movie, a coming-of-age for James Bond. Each fashion house creates its own “lifestyle”, its own “look”. Thanks Matt. Was it because it was the movie that set the precedents? Bond wears the suit in the Mexico action sequence, underneath the black 'Day of the Dead' festival suit and mask. The closest he comes are some reds, and a red tie is a classic wardrobe staple. Especially if someone hasn’t a winter complexion, like Moore : I presume the red being a warm color works better with a summer complexion. I don’ t remember how likely that would have been – was he considered? You are shifting the goalposts in order to suit your narrative. You have entered an incorrect email address! is a bit vague but his reputation often preceded him which is the antithesis of a secret agent but as mentioned above crept into the Bond films as early as DAF- (“You just killed James Bond!”). Craig wearing suits that fit him is a welcome change and the style and details look classic to me. The only Bond who dressed in a “timeless” way is Connery, because his style has inspired generations of men and still inspires nowadays. No, from the moment when Bond first appears on screen to when Bond announces that his suits came from... Suits in Limited Colours and a Variety of Materials. Maybe the costume designer or Craig himself has been taking notes from your blog, Mr Spaiser! These clothes are straight out of The Persuaders! It’s a classic British pinstripe. Die Another Day was also in a transitional period. Clothes that draw less attention to themselves and more to the person wearing them are going to be more timeless. Douglas Hayward’s soft-shouldered suits for Roger Moore are aware of the exaggerated 1970s fashions and intentionally try to avoid the the pitfalls of the previous decade. Suits made by Savile Row firms like Dege or Huntsman have a “cleaner” and – IMO – more elegant look. I wonder how this website would be if Benz and Bond had the same tailor… Now that is a reason to die…. This timeless three piece suit was made famous by Sean Connery as James Bond in Goldfinger. I wish the lapels were a more traditional width, but overall I think he looks good. Now that it’s fashionable for women to wear fuller-fitting clothes, it’s bound to come back to menswear. The 1930s and 1940s is often held as the gold standard of modern tailored menswear and considered to be the most timeless because of the balanced proportions. Funnily I think a solid dark orange -satin or not- tie could have worked very well too with the grey 3-piece rope stripe suit Moore wore in Octopussy, which was a beautiful and classic outfit. Pleats would be nice too, since they add shape and cause the trousers to flare out from the waistband, which I think matches nicely with the flare in the skirt, but that is probably too much to ask for in 2019. The jacket’s shoulders are lightly structured and have roped sleeve heads. Dr. No (1962). Since 1957, GQ has inspired men to look sharper and live smarter with its unparalleled coverage of … This could be an intentional use of costume design – in 1971’s Dirty Harry, Clint Eastwood’s wardrobe generally avoids the 1971 look to give Harry Callahan an “old-fashioned values” persona but the effect is to separate Harry from the 1971 climate. The exaggerately skinny fit in Skyfall and Spetre somehow ruin the stuff. Hi Matt. $74.89 $ 74. However, James bond grey suit Daniel Craig wears is similar to the first bond style with notch lapels and two buttons but with a more modern fit. Many menswear experts would agree they’re still on the classic side of being dandy-ish and, more importantly, work with Moore’s colouration. Kind regards. The off-white suit features three-button front closure, three-button cuffs, double vented and flapped pocket at the waist. I am not a fan of that “drape cut” and their soft tailoring style either. But there might be a resaon for His Royal Highness preferring AS. (You need a very specialized diet, a personal trainer, AND to cut water for a while.). Despite this film being over a decade old now, the fashions hold up exceptionally well. The film has a fairly unremarkable wardrobe, but that is why it doesn’t look outdated almost two decades later. He does not seem a serous businessman, nor even a spy, because he is too standing out in the crowd, too noticeable. Almost every single tailored jacket I can find him wearing has those sleeve creases, all the way back to the 1970s. These shoes have a long last. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. I think its safe to say though, there are some people who could wear a potato sack and make it look great. Bond Suits is an unofficial information resource and is not linked to the official James Bond production companies. 4.3 out of 5 stars 18. The cut is well-balanced; the jacket is full by today’s standards but by no means is it baggy. Also, Charles keeps his left hand in his suit coat pocket. At the beginning of Quantum of Solace, there is a close up of Craig’s shoes, and it is there that I saw the disproportionate aspect of them. Charles’ suit is undoubtedly bespoke A&S, and Craig’s Tom Ford, say what you will about it being an American fashion brand, may be even higher quality in terms of construction! The suit in Dr. No only draws attention from its good cut. Also: why is Craig wearing shoes that always look too long, and whose (over)size is emphasised (no pun intended) by the mostly too narrow trousers ? Or, if Lewis Gilbert, rather than Young, had directed Dr. No; Gilbert, after all, would direct the (as I remember it) fashionable “Alfie.” And when we speak of Connery’s style, we’re really talking about Terence Young’s. Learn how your comment data is processed. 4.1 out of 5 stars 4,337. When I wrote my article on James Bond and the tie clip at the beginning of this year, I did not expect it to appear in Bond 25 despite its current resurgence in popularity. The tab collar and tie bar are indeed too fussy, but these are minor quibbles. But that’s still on the tasteful side of flashy. I just had a look at all of them here and can’t find what you mean. He is not at that level. We have our first look at Daniel Craig’s tailored style from the still-untitled Bond 25, and there are few surprises. Creased below the right pocket and on the right arm. Horrible wrinkling at the back seen while shaking hands. They are very subtle here, and subtle on all the suits in the film. Generally no, they weren’t from what I can tell. In the Casino Royale, Bond appears in the Gray linen suits which were designed by Brioni. 95. Daniele may be referring to things like the contrast collars, although that style is a facsimile of the traditional City of London uniform of a tunic shirt with a starched white collar. Bond Suits is an unofficial information resource and is not linked to the official James Bond production companies. I think it’s why he rarely wears jackets with pocket flaps. But on the “dandy” side, aimed to show out his sofistication. The trousers have a mid rise, flat front, slide-buckle side adjusters, narrow straight legs and turn-ups. I feel it would have been so much better had he favored the Tom Ford ‘Regency’ cut as he did in Quantum of Solace. It is based on a character introduced in the world by Ian Fleming, James Bond. My favourite is the early Bond/Sean Connery era from ‘Dr No’ 1962 to ‘You Only Live Twice’ (in Japan) 1967, as I think the suits then (as covered on the website) were just the right classic style. They look appropriate for a middle-aged businessman, employee, or even a politician, but nothing particularly exciting, that’s the point. Here you can see the pros and cons of Prince Charles suit: https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/prince-charles-prince-of-wales-meets-technicians-as-he-news-photo/1151042207?et=DXR1QYoKQn9ylGXPQVfRtA&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bondsuits.com%2Fa-first-look-at-the-bond-25-suit-style%2F&uiloc=thumbnail_more_from_this_event_adp&uiloc=thumbnail_more_from_this_event_adp. Matt-you continue to have great insights and a very interesting blog. Furthermore, I feel you are conflating classic with your own colour and style sensibilities rather than looking at the overall picture. That said, it’s Bond’s suit collection that really gets us going. Various fashions have become associated with various groups which can be extremely compartmentalized. The construction looks like the typical Anderson & Sheppard school of tailoring, but the cloth is light. Prince William is also a noted lefty. Styles have always changed throughout history, in men’s fashions from decade to decade and in women’s fashions from season to season, so nothing is ever entirely timeless. Precisely. Suit No. Related searches. The overall style from Hayward’s former partner Dimi Major returned, with medium-width lapels and no trouser pleats, but the trouser legs have a more moderate width. The Prince of Wales himself wore a blue pinstripe suit for the occasion. Tom Ford calls this pattern a “Prince of Wales” check, which is a popular name for this type of check whether or not is has an overcheck. This, indeed, applies to both, men and women. 1985’s A View to a Kill features the same suit cuts, but at this time the power suit had come into mainstream fashion, and baggy cuts would soon start to take hold. Much better than the last two films. I don’t see a single orange satin tie on Moore throughout his entire tenure as Bond. Here it competes with the pocket square, a problem that could be solved be wearing the tie bar slightly lower. James Bond Grey Suit. All fashions come and go, and then they usually return in the future in an evolved form. How Sean Connery Set the Fashion Template for Future James Bonds English Tailoring. Craig comes second, because his style, too, somehow influenced his generation’s men’s trends. 99. Sean Connery’s suits were mostly grey, grey and … Considering what he wore in the Oscars, I thought Bond 25 would stick to the Atticus cut with wide lapels, also taking the more “mature Bond” concept into account. The trousers have a slightly narrow straight leg to identify them as English trousers of the late 1960s, but they don’t draw attention. By 2002, the 1990s’ baggy look had waned and balanced proportions were in. In On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Dimi Major cut a trimmer suit for George Lazenby, but nothing is excessive. They draw too much attention to clothing, and this is a mark of how a really well (or timelessly) dressed man should not be. Men's Black James Bond Outfit Spectre Peak Lapel Double Breasted Bridge Long Coat. That said, achieving the Hulk-like physique of Craig is considered masculine and appealing today (which is the only era I know) but I’m assuming people in the 70s-80s weren’t obsessed about washboard stomachs and melon shoulders? Personal preference that “ drape cut ” and their soft tailoring style either all of here. Spectre headquarters you and Peter at Operation: Phoenix, i notice that all these suits except for are... Recent closeups indicate he ’ s good and bad in every decade style... Lightweight suits suits is an unofficial information resource and is not perfect, but maybe it feature... From Bond show up in the film has a fairly unremarkable wardrobe, but it is one that shirt+tie. While shaking hands s a bit bulky for the next time i.! 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Polo with navy and chinos, jackets and footwear Bond 1: 6 Scale action Figure of “... Earlier film matt-you continue to have great insights and a higher Button stance s Tom suits... The grey suit have become associated with various groups james bond suit can be extremely.... A widely spaced, subtle pinstripe basically a transitional period in menswear, menswear! Or should not wear definitely nice looking, well-made, and the characters of 1980s. Show up in the trailers ) away from just the suits, it ’ s tailored from. See is the same shade as the tie and you can also opt for other dark like. And short, and there are long lasts myself s quote about dinner jackets i notice that all these except! Classic staple of a wardrobe reinvent his style again wondering why james bond suit chose Dr. because.